22 May 2012

Temple in Nandi Hills


Recently I wrote about the charming Rang Bagh temple on the outskirts of Hyderabad which I had visited in February. Last week I was telling a friend about the scenic Bhoganandishwara temple just outside Bangalore in Nandi village at the base of the Nandi Hills. I had a look through my photographs of the temple and decided to showcase some of them here. (Above: a statue of Nandi, the namesake of the village and the surrounding hills.)



This temple was built in 800 AD by the Cholas. It features typical architectural elements found in South India Dravidian temples: the temple sanctum or ‘vimanam’ has a pyramidal roof, there’s a covered and pillared ‘mandapam’ or hall, and the temple enclosure forms a quadrangle with towers or ‘gopurams’ on each side. There’s also a temple ‘tank’ or pond, in this case built in the form of a step well. (Above: one of the temple gopurams.)



One of the things I love about this temple is the beautiful, intricate sculptures adorning the pillars of the mandapam. Here are a few examples.











A beautiful sacred tulsi plant and statue of Naga, the snake god.



Through a gopuram leading to the step well...



The step well with the Nandi Hills in the background.


This temple is not only exceptionally scenic and full of architectural treasures, it's also a quiet and peaceful getaway from the city.

15 May 2012

Music outside my window

“Do you know any Kannada songs?” This was a question put to me by my Kannada teacher.

The answer was yes, I know many Kannada songs. “Which ones?” she then asked.

How to tell her which songs I know? I have no clue of their titles, don’t understand the lyrics (apart from a few words) and am completely unfamiliar with the popular singers or Kannada movies.

So the only way to let her know which songs I’m familiar with was to hum them and insert the random words I recognise.

So it went something like this: “Ninindale, ninindale, la la la la la la la agide…”

Then there’s that one that’s a duet, with a man and a woman singing, that goes: “Kariya, I love you… la la la la la la la...”

“How do you know all these songs?!” was her reaction. This question surprised me almost as much as the time she asked me how is it that I have Indian friends. I think she thinks I don’t get out of the house much.

How can I not know these songs? I hear them on the street, in shops, on the bus, in auto-rickshaws and taxis, and whenever a mobile phone rings. I don’t even have to leave the house to hear them. I hear the music from my window: from a parked car or the gym on the main road, and every time there’s some kind of habba going on in the neighbourhood.

With very little difficulty, I found these five Kannada hits on YouTube. I tested my husband’s Kannada song knowledge and he scored 4 out of 5.

So here, for your listening pleasure, is the soundtrack to my life in Bangalore:










12 May 2012

This morning outside my window


From my kitchen window I’ve been watching the progress of the construction of a new building over the past few months.

This morning I watched as this painter was putting some finishing touches on the newly painted façade. As you can see, he’s seated on a wooden platform attached to a rope which descends from the roof. On the roof is someone securing the rope.

The painter yelled “DOWN!” (in English) whenever he was ready to move down to the next level. As the rope gradually slackened, he would slowly ease down the façade. When he reached the spot where he wanted to be, he yelled “BAS!” (enough).

He looked like he was in a precarious position, sitting on that wobbly platform and suspended in the air like that. I imagine he had complete trust in the person holding the rope!

This used to be the view from my kitchen window. Soon I’ll have new neighbours watching me through their windows!

24 April 2012

One view of Goa


I still don’t know what to make of Goa. I’ve been there on three occasions which has not been enough for me to decide whether I like it or not. With some places it’s love at first sight – but Goa seems to take some getting to know.

Maybe it’s because I’m not a beach person and Goa is mostly about beaches. I mean, I like the sea and I like the beach, but I like hills, gardens, landscapes and the countryside more.

Of course Goa has all that too, which makes it a very beautiful state to visit. However, the commercialism of the tourist industry has unfortunately disfigured a lot of it. This has been the sorry fate of many, many places around the world.

Perhaps I was born in the wrong time. I should have been born in the 40s which would have made me a 60s flower child. I could have taken a magic bus from Europe across Central Asia to India and eventually to Goa when it was surely a paradise.

All this said, if you have a camera you can create a beautiful world. Looking through the narrow scope of the viewfinder you can capture the most beautiful images you come across, leaving all the scum at the periphery completely out of the picture.

While in Goa I did come across empty beaches and enchanted gardens. I did have many moments of beauty. I’m sharing some of these moments I captured here.








29 March 2012

You’ve got (no) mail

I love getting letters in the post because they’ve become such a rarity. Especially if the address is written by hand and there’s postage stamps stuck on the envelope. Unfortunately handwritten ‘letters’ bearing news and affection from far-off friends and family have become almost extinct. We don’t even take the time to write emails these days with chat, facebook and skype at our constant disposal.

I got two letters this week. And not surprisingly, neither is a ‘real’ letter from friends or family. One is an invitation to an art exhibition. The other, printed on an Inland Letter Card, is a notice reminding me to renew a magazine subscription. Even though they’re not the real thing, I still enjoyed receiving them because they seem to me like mementoes of a time past. Of course each respective sender could have sent me an email, inviting me to the exhibition or reminding me about the subscription renewal. But they didn’t. They sent me a letter instead. I like receiving letters because they’re almost obsolete. I kept these two letters on my desk all week and once in a while I’d look at them.

I used to love writing and receiving letters. I’d choose nice envelopes, carefully write the address in my best handwriting and then ask for ‘nice’ stamps at the post office. For me, letter writing was a high art and the paper, envelope, colour of ink, stamps and postmarks were all part of the tableau.

At my first job after university one of my tasks was to open all the mail in the morning. I loved this task. In those days, most communication was still done by post and we would get a mountain of mail every day from every corner of the world. I would examine each envelope and carefully cut away the stamps for my co-worker who would later give them to her daughter.


I used to even joke that my ideal job would be mail carrier. I would get to get up early, sort and handle exquisite letters with beautiful handwriting and exotic stamps, spend most of the morning walking around residential neighbourhoods, distributing good news to happy housewives and then go home to retire by midday. The life of a mail carrier is probably not as romantic as I imagined. Besides, the only mail delivered today is mostly computer-generated bills – and a few invitations and subscription reminders.

Our postman delivers our mail by bicycle. He has a canvas bag full of letters and small parcels slung over the handlebars. Sometimes I find our mail in the letterbox attached to the gate, but most times it ends up either at the office located on the ground floor or at my landlords’. I guess it’s too much work to sort out different addressees all located at the same address. When there’s a registered letter he doesn’t even bother coming to our door. Apparently he tells our landlady, “The ‘English people’ are not there. Please sign.”

This post was supposed to be about my experiences with India Post but it has taken an entirely different turn. That will have to be the subject of a future post!


29 February 2012

Temple life


A few weeks ago I spent three days in a temple on the outskirts of Hyderabad. I had gone there during the temple's Brahmotsavam (annual festivities). I was especially interested in seeing the dance rituals which are performed here during this time. This is something I'll be writing about in more detail in my other blog.


The temple was an oasis of calm in a once rural area which is quickly becoming a neighbourhood of glass buildings housing IT companies and upmarket apartment complexes. Entering the temple was like stepping into another world where time had stopped.

The temple priests were busy from dawn to dusk with various prayers and rituals. I felt completely at home here and enjoyed loitering around and observing the goings-on. The atmosphere was completely different to other temples I've visited. Maybe because it's a small family-run temple off the tourist circuit.


A priest chanting Sanskrit verses. (To hear what this sounds like, click on 'temple priests chanting' in the right sidebar under 'Listen to the sounds of India'.) His mobile phone becomes a page marker.


Morning breathing exercises.



I'm not sure what was up here, but I'd love to know!


Priest paraphernalia.
I came across this priest setting up for what looked like an elaborate puja. He was sitting facing a blank wall.


This was the result. An offering to Surya, the sun god. I understood why he performed the puja here: he was facing east. Another example of how art is ritual and ritual is art.


The temple deity, Lord Ranganathaswamy (reclining Vishnu) is seen here in the temple sanctum.
The temple musicians.